Thursday 16 December 2010

assignment four.

As our world grows ever more complex and fragmented, the importance of appearance grows ever greater: our visible differences and similarities facilitating interaction and relationships” Ted Polhemus.
Fashion has a massive effect on social and cultural factors. What you wear shows your status as a person in modern society, your beliefs and morals. It is the way we advertise our self to others.
This generation have lost their street style and left it with the last. To have street style we have to have a certain amount of rough and grime, need people on the street corner. Today people all want to be seen as the same. We all shop at Topshop and yes my under wear is from Ann Summers. The student riots in London made me proud that the youths of today are standing up and fighting for something they believe in. Drama can be created from an outfit. Lady Gaga’s dress made from real roar meat was talked about for weeks. What a waste was the most common reaction. Personally I think the opposite, she made her statement.
Teen smoking caught my attention after reading The Tipping Point. Smoking has increased even though everyone knows the dangers. How do you advertise against something that is so influential? Brands are highly influential, like smoking it gives the image of ‘cool’ and grown up. Branding tells the rest of the world that we can afford to buy into Western culture and luxury. Found especially in the economically disadvantaged societies, people want to express money and prove this through their clothes. A simple rule was created stating brands equals money.
Women have always had a massive pressure to be sexually attractive to the opposite sex; females go to a massive length to be considered wanted. Waxing, threading, plucking, bleaching, tanning, the list is endless. In the last decade grooming for males has become more popular.
Everyone is labelled. It is becoming increasingly difficult to dodge stereotypes. Blondes are stupid, is simply one of the many. Woman will be judged just because of their hair colour and people may treat them differently. I find this interesting because I believe it affects everyday life and changes the way people act. It also relates to women in the media and how we rate or slate them even if we don’t know them.
 The start of branding also started the birth of hippies, people who wanted to protest against branding completely. Deadlocks and men wearing skirts showed their opinions. Many ‘hippies’ decided to live in vehicles, so as not to consent to the confined space of houses. Home education became much more popular so children did not have the control of school. Life was free of advertisement (TV) and the drum role of everyday normal life. Instead of a desk they wanted to see the wonders of the world.
      Where the Girls Are: Growing up female with the mass media by Susan J. Douglas, talks about woman who have been idols for women throughout the decades and have revolutionised life for females.
During her husband’s presidency, Jacqueline Kennedy became a massive style icon and certain clothes such as pillbox hats were quickly tagged as the “Jackie” style. It wasn’t just her sense of style that pushed her to stardom or her marriage. Kennedy wasn’t the typical Disney perfect woman of her time, she had feet twice the since of Cinderella and could speak more languages than her husband.
Douglas then goes onto another huge influence Audrey Hepburn who still is a household name. One of Hepburn largest roles in her career was as Holly Golightly in Breakfast at Tiffanys, Golightly is at the height of fashion n the early 1960’s but has a distain for marriage and was flat chested. A party animal who entwines in lots of different circles of people. Often cast against men older than her she always held her won. Renound for her elegant beauty she never relied on her looks. Hepburn was a generous woman who broke the moulds of the media and spoke for herself. In 1988 Hepburn worked for UNICEF.
Another interesting point Douglas made was the feminist demonstration for Women’s liberation at the 1968 Miss American Pageant. The press called them "bra-less bubble heads" but the women were trying to make a valuable point that pagents make the woman nothing more than a piece of meat. Woman around the country responded in masses and increased the woman's organisation by four hundred fold. These are all woman that have changed history for the better and made the life for women better. Women that are at the height of fashion have always been in the limelight of the media and therefore became role models for lots of people, mainly women.
Real Bodies Unite campaigning for body diversity in fashion is a company run in Perth, Australia. They interviewed Vanessa Reece, a plus size model for asos and a single mother aged thirty five. Reece made very valid points: “Fashion is business like any other. They will and do sell the dream, the ideal and they want to make money. They don’t really consider the effect fashion has on society and how it’s portrayed.”
Consuming Cultures, Globalization and Local Lives written by Jeremy Seabrook. Seabrook talks about the threat to cultural diversity and identity around the world including the Western world. The media: mainly films are making all cultures trying to be more like the western world therefore ruining cultural boundaries, languages and customs. Local cultures are being destroyed. Seabrook talks about the fight between local and global. This relates heavily to designers as they are the desirable and are clearly a symbol of western culture, luxury and glamour. McDonalds serves around 50 million people a day in 119 countries. McDonalds is not posh or unattainable but is so popular because everyone can have a piece of it, from famous to homeless.
            The Sage Dictionary of Cultural Studies. Chris Barker, 2004, Sage Publications Ltd London 2004. Looking up the word Style in the Dictionary, Barker brings up some interesting points about how the idea of style was "constituted by the signifying practices of youth subcultures, including the display of codes of meaning achieved via the transformation of commodities as cultural signs". Style identifies your beliefs and identity. Barker describes how punk is a perfect­­ example of this. Punk was a 'revolting style' using black rubbish bags and safety pins. It was responding to the crisis Britain was going through. The Thatcher rein, lack of jobs and poverty was expressed in anger through their clothing. Punk was amazing as it created a youth culture that was completely created by people on the streets and then published by music and designers. Vivienne Westwood and the Sex Pistols became hugely famous. Westwood opened a shop called Sex; it was very shocking at its time.
Barker also goes on to mention the first 'skinheads' who were dressing to like the stressed resources of the working class. Taking the hard lives of the working class and styling it without even realising, wearing boots, jeans and braces. "Their style loyalty of 'the gang' of mates. Barker also argues that the consumerist culture has robbed style of its fun and creativity to be flattened down to become a political question of need and money.
            Alexander McQueen who is in my opinion one of the greatest designers, was famous because of his creativity and out of this world designs.  “If you ask any lady they want to be taller, they want to be slimmer, you know, and they want a waist. I'm not here to make people look like a sack of potatoes.” –McQueen. His fashion was outlandish and mainly kept to the catwalk and extrovert superstars. Yet people should start to dress differently. Everyone today is generally put into different genres; indie, chav, goth and yahs. What people wear says a lot about them, people judge at first sight. For instance if your are seen in a Abercrombie and Fitch body warmer and a pair of Ugg boots most people would associate them with being in the upper class with parents who drive a Landrover.
Fashion is not something that exists in dresses only. Fashion is in the sky, in the street; fashion has to do with ideas, the way we live, what is happening.” - Coco Chanel.
The children’s market is now huge in products and food, advertising to consumer children is a massive business. Children understand branding from a much younger age this year. I have a vivid memory of my little brother at the age of about one, he couldn’t speak properly yet but instead he had his own language which only the close family could understand. For crisps, which was one of his favourite words he would lick his lips and make a “ppsss ppps” noise. In the car on a long drive down to England, my young brother was hungry and bored. Frantically making his noise for crisps I told him that we didn’t have any of his favourite snacks. Slowly realising that driving perfectly beside us was a lorry with a logo for Walkers crisps.
The average American child watches an estimate of 25,000 to 40,000 television advertisements a year. Older woman are trying desperately to look younger while ‘tweens’ (8-12) are trying to look older. ‘Tweens’ are a massive influence and spend more than 30 billion dollars a year. Children will grow up to become the future consumers and therefore marketers try to hook children when they are young so that they grow with a bond to brand and buy it all the way through life. How many people stay with the same bank that they had their first bank account with? Everyone has their favorite brand of butter or juice.   



Sunday 12 December 2010

pretty pictures.


I found these images on a website called www.folksy.com.. you buy loads of intresting nik naks.
these images are from lola's room, she has loads of really pretty pictures, calenders, postcards and badges.

Wednesday 24 November 2010

http://www.thewildernessdowntown.com/

assignment three.

In assignment two I was looking how designers influence who we are. The solutions I came up with was: religion, the media, celebrities, television, and the consumist culture we live in. For assignment three I am going to take a closer look at globalization and growing up as a female with the mass media. How the media and advertising has created are ideals of the woman's modern perfect body. I find that cross search has been very difficult to use. So I have done most of my research through books in the library.

Where The Girls Are: Growing up female with the mass media. Susan J. Douglas, Published by the Penguin Group, first published in the USA by Times Books, a division of Random House 1994, Printed in England by Clays Ltd, St. Ives plc.

The first book I looked at was Where The Girls Are by Susan J. Douglas. Douglas talks about how Jacqueline Kennedy redefined feminity for the baby boom. She has feet half the size of Cinderella's, therefore isnt the typical Disney perfect woman. Kennedy knew more languages than her husband yet was a leading lady in fashion in her time. Douglas also talks about Holly Golightly played by Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany's. Holly Golightly had a distain for marriage and was flat chested yet was at the height of glamour in the early 1960's. Another point Douglas intrested me in was the first major feminists demonstration for women's liberation at the 1968 Miss American Pageant. The press called them "bra-less bubble heads" but the women were trying to make a valuable point that pagents make the woman nothing more than a piece of meat. Woman around the country responded in mases and increased the woman's organisation by four hundred fold. These are all woman that have changed history for the better and made the life for women better. Woman that have always been at the height of fashion and have always been in the media become role models for lots of people.



Consuming Cultures, Globalization and Local Lives, Jeremy Seabrook, New Internationalist Publications Ltd. First published in the UK, Patents Act 1988 Jeremy Seabrook 2004.

Seabrook talks about the threat to cultural diveristy and identity around the world including the Western world. The media: mainly films are making all cultures trying to be more like the western world therefore ruining cultural boundries, languages and customs. Local cultures are being destroyed. Seabrook talks about the fight between local and global. This realates heavily to designers as they are the desirable and are clearly a symbol of western culture, luxury and glamour. McDonalds serves around 50 million people a day in 119 countries.



The Sage Dictionary of Cultural Studies. Chris Barker, 2004, Sage Publications Ltd London 2004.

Looking up the word Style in the Dictionary, Barker brings up some intresting points about how the idea of style was "constituted by the signifying practices of youth subcultures, including the diplay of codes of meaning achieved via the transformation of commodities as cultural signs". Style identifies your beliefs and and identity. Barker discribes how punk is a perfect example of this. Punk was a 'revolting style' using black rubbish bags and safety pins. It was responding to the crisis, Britain was going through the Thatcher rein and the lack of jobs and poverty was expressed in anger through their clothing. Punk was amazing as it created a youth culture that was completely created by people on the streets and then publisied by music and designers such as Vivienne Westwood and the Sex Pistols. Barker also goes on to mention the first 'skinheads' who were dressing to like the hard lives of the working class, wearing boots, jeans and braces. "Their style stressed the resources of working class collectivism and territoriality through the coherence and loyalty of 'the gang' of mates. Barker also argues that the consumerist culture has robbed stlyle of its fun and creativity to be flattened down to become a political qustion of need and money.


ten websites.

Banksy's artwork has revolutionised street art which has been named  the biggest rebellion since punk. "When I was eighteen I spent one night trying to paint 'LATE AGAIN' in big silver bubble letters on the side of a passenger train. British transport police showed up and I got ripped to shreds running away through a thorny bush. The rest of my mates made it to the car and disappeared so I spent over an hour hidden under a dumper truck with engine oil leaking all over me. As I lay there I realised I had to cut my painting time in half or give up altogether. I was staring straight up at the stencilled plate on the bottom of a fuel tank when I realised I could just copy that stlye and make each letter three feet high.
I got home at last and crawled into bed next to my girlfriend. I told her I'd had an epiphany that night and she told me to stop taking that drug 'cos its bad for your heart."
Banksy has recently released a film called Exit Through The Gift Shop. 
And his identity is still  a secret. 

Kelly Smith has a beautifull collection of fashion illustrations on her website.

Maureen Paley is the name of a gallery in London's East End and shows work from lots of different artists set in a Victorian terraced house. Anne Hardy is one of my personal faverites.

Lula magazine is a source for inspitation. The website lets you listen to some of the interviews and watch videos which a magaine would ever be able to capture.

Mercedes Helnwein draws fascinating and fantastical girls. "My sanity always has and probably always will, depend on drawing. Things calm down for me when I draw. It's like my nervous system regenerates" -Mercedes Helnwein.

Wonderland magazine website has been created so that you can watch wonderland tv which is fantastic.

Claire ann Baker is a textile designer, maker and lecturer in the North east of England. "her collections are based on a passion for sensitive imagery, vintage ephemera and perceptive colour palettes"

A website built so that you can upload your own portfolio and search through other's. Tagged as an employment community for designers. Look up Ariel Mazo, I love her work.

Being intrested in advertising makes this page very intresting to see how smoking was promoted in the past to become a trusted part of our society.

British Vogue has told the nation how to dress for generations and is still hugely influential today.

kat macleod.



I love Kat Macleod's work, her latest book is amazing, her illustrations make me realise why I wanted to do Art. Like I Give A Frock was relesed last Autumn and apprently she is bringing out a new book in April. Michi xx

knitted fashion.


“Fashion is not something that exists in dresses only. Fashion is in the sky, in the street, fashion has to do with ideas, the way we live, what is happening.” - Coco Chanel.
Clare Tough is leading in knitwear perfect to wear for winter, Tough wants girls to wear knitted dresses and nothing else. There is a heaviness to the knitting which is balanced out by a delicate lightness and perfectly placed holes so that femine collarbones and shoulderbones are shown.   

Friday 19 November 2010

visual languages.


    Visual language is a universal way to communicate. Looking at the posters from America and comparing them to English ones from World War 1 proves this point perfectly. A picture tells a 1000 words.  

Friday 12 November 2010

craft.









After the lecture today, the division between art and craft became fragile. Knit is what I am doing for this week, walking into the room with the machines clacking and the coloured threads whirring, a girl in the class commented that it felt like visitng a factory in the 1920's. This made me want to ask the question comfronted in the lecture today about knit. How is craft distinct from art and design? Anyone with the knowledge of using a knit machine would be able to make beuatiful samples. Artists can visualise something clearly in their mind but they still need the skills to be able to create the ideas. Plumbers and electictians have to be creative and work well with their hands to do their job but does that mean they are artists? I would argue no, as craft has an emphasis on function. Roy Lichtenstein was a leading pop artist and rebbelled againt the theory of what art was, but it still became valued and pop art was used for the Beatles, Sgt. Peppers album cover. Acient shell neckalces have been found in caves and some belive that they were used for rituilas but they were used to show status for the chief of clans and for shemans to wear. Art is essentially leisure. 

Craft has recently become fashionable again  from the last craze in the 70's. Knitting groups have started all over Britian, a group in Nottinghill even had a knitted wedding. Caroline Gates is a contempary artist who uses knit. The problem with knit is how do you brand something that is against consumerism? Chi ha paura, who is afraid of? in Itailian, is a comtempory jewellery brand that is taking away the consumerism  factor yet still managing to brand an amazing company. Branding has ruined many brilliant artists before, Wedgewood was a pinoeer in branding and created one of the first factories, designing his own designs and then hiring other artists to paint his works threrefore making the products cheaper to buy but his crafts went down in value. To answer the question: how is craft distinct from art and design? I dont think anyone truely knows the answer but has to make their own conclusion. I personally think that craft is more of a hobbie and being an artist is a proffesion.

Wednesday 10 November 2010

one step. two.






HOW DO FASHION DESIGNERS INFLUENCE WHAT WE WEAR AND WHO WE ARE? After working in groups and doing timed brainstorming sessions, we eventually created a mind map that had the principles of our main themes. We then split into smaller groups and chose a more specialist route. To get a better understanding of what people think influences what they wear, we put up a poster outside our college shop. The feedback was expected with answers such as: comfort, idols, celebrities, peers, fashion websites, blogs and vogue. The majority of answers was other people. Famous or not, people that have stepped out of the gloom and into the limelight in our life from modeling to putting pictures on blogs to simply being different at school and this made them highly impressionable on us.

Friday 29 October 2010

good design and bad design lecture 29th October 2010





In February 2003 The Darfur Conflict started, in the same month Paris Hilton was caught in sex tape scandal which was publicized massively in the news; more so than Darfur. A shocking design by Nadia Piesner was brought out illustrating these demoralising ideals. The African, naked boy holding a chiwawa and a Louis Vuitton bag printed on t-shirts, is an uncomfortable image to look at. For this she was sued by Marc Jacobs. I think this is a very good design because Art and Design should be made to make a statement and awareness. Create a wave and show the disappointing fact that people care more about Paris' sex life than the hideous conditions people live in all around the world in different countries. On the other this is not a dig at Louis Vuitton, I would love a designer handbag. This t-shirt does not do nothing, it is not stuck on a gallery wall, it is in the streets for everyone to see not just those who want to see art. Its makes people think and react, which is the only way change will happen for the better. 

Wednesday 27 October 2010

the unsticky cigarette.

 





References (Harvard Method)

RICHARD KLUGER, Ashes to Ashes: America's hundred-year cigarette war, the public health and the unabashed triumph of Philip Morris, Random House Publishing (1999), Vintage Books (1997), 811 pages hardback and paper back. 
DONALD RUBINSTEIN (1995), Love and Suffering: Adolescent Socialization and Suicide in Micronesia, The Contemporary Pacific, Vol. 7, 1995, 1989 to present, University of Hawaii Press (USA), Editor: Terence Wesley - Smith.
W. KIP VISCUSI, Harvard University economist.
DAVID PHILLIPS, sociologist of the University of California, San Diego, A Comparison of Injury Date and Death Date in 42698 suicides, AJPH May (1988), Vol. 78, No. 5.
DAVID KROGH, Smoking: The Artificial Passion, September (1991), W. H. Freeman and Co. Ltd, New York, Hardback 176 pages.
OVIDE POMERLEAU, University of Michigan, Tobacco Research Network, www. med.umich.edu/.
SAUL SHIFFMAN, University of Pittsburgh, Journal of Abnormal Psychology, S. & Paty, J.A. (2006), American Psychological Association (USA).
ALLAN COLLINS, University of Colorado.
JUDITH HARRIS, The Nurture Assumption (1998), Bloomsbury PLC (1999), 473 pages, paperback.
DAVID ROWE, The Limits of Family Influence (1994), Guilford Press, a division of Guilford Publications, Inc. (USA), 232 pages, paperback. 
BENOWITZ and JACK HENNINGFIELD, New England Journal of Medicine, nejm.org.


 






tipping point mindmap.

Monday 25 October 2010

the tipping point

The Tipping Point by Malcolm Gladwell was an interesting read looking at the social psychological viewpoints of trends. Gladwell gives hope to new designers. A small difference can tip a buisness and anyone can make it, they just need to do the right thing at the right time. I enjoyed the book more than I thought I would and it shows how anything is possible. Everyone has Mavens, Connectors and Salesmen in their life, and the infinite importance of your relationship wont become clear until you have read this book.
Smoking and teen smoking in particular is an interesting discussion in the last chapter of the book, I will look at this topic in my mind map.